Fairweather surfers

Remember, it was older brother types that got me even close to the water in the first place.  after Todd’s many attempts, we were in Hawaii in December and met an extraordinary family.   The Haydens from Bend, Oregon were the combination of an open and big-hearted dad, an intelligent and dedicated mom, and a crazy little guy whom Bodhi immediately took too.  We were the only ones sharing an amazing sunset day at Hanalei Bay, just lolling about in the ‘big swimming pool’ by the pier, aglory in the thick colors and soft silky warm* water (70+ degrees).   Katie had a long board and was paddling around, Loren was watching Keanu and Bodhi and smiling this huge unavoidable smile.  By the next day, Loren had us up on the long board and beach bound on long easy rides.  Amee, a total natural.

But it took this tragedy and this spate of incredible summer (winter) weather to get me off my butt around here.  And my good friend Doug Nolan, patiently pushing me into the white water yesterday.  Both he and Loren are actually younger than me, but they are taller, so that counts.  Now it threatens to ‘close out’, weather wise and I predict that might get me hiding again, avoiding the steel gray cold and licking my wounds at home.   We’ll see.  Redsky at morning, surfers are yawning?


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